In case you don’t already know the name from my blog, Chef Saurav Nath has been on my one-to-watch-list from my first-ever visit to one of the supper clubs where he was cooking. Saurav has some great credentials, having worked at the likes of Benares and Gymkhana and each time I experience his food, I’m always blown away by the precision of cooking in the kitchen and talent to blend both old and modern culinary traditions and turn them into mouthfuls of joy. That’s exactly what he did here at this latest event, blending Indian spices & cooking techniques – with festive British ingredients.
This latest supper club was held once again at the fabulous Chakra in Kensington and was hosted and devised by food & hospitality consultant, Humayun Hussain. Chakra is a fantastic little restaurant and so I should also note that if any of the supper clubs hosted here just don’t quite fit into your diary – a meal here is simply delicious.
We kicked off our evening with a delicious cocktail and an amuse-bouche of watermelon and artichoke chat. When I first read such a concoction on the menu, I wasn’t too sure – but it turned out to be one of my favourite things on the menu and I only wish I could eat it all over again. Sweet, sour, crunchy, refreshing – it was the umami of amuse bouches and it really got our pallet salivating for what was yet to come.
I’ve mentioned that I’ve been to many of Surav’s supper clubs in the past and whilst all of them have been excellent, this for me was his biggest triumph yet. I thought not only did almost every single dish sing with flavour, but each was simply outstanding in almost all aspects, easily rivalling and surpassing some of London’s best Michelin starred Indian restaurants.
One dish I thought was beautiful and surpassed all of my expectations was this chargrilled Scottish venison tikka coated with Rajasthani pickling spice, green chilli flavoured red cabbage & cranberry gel. The meat was so smokey, so rich and cooked to absolute perfection. The dish was taken to higher heights with the most amazing Venison Scotch egg, which I declare should now be sold in every London pub.
One thing that is incredibly hard to do right at any busy supper club, is cook shellfish without it arriving at the tables cold and tough. Miraculously, Saurav somehow managed to pull it off and I honestly have to say this pan-seared Atlantic scallop was so stunning. Large, juicy and it melted in the mouth. Served with celeriac puree, madras curry soil, mustard & curry leaf – this was one of my favourite dishes from the evening. Perhaps the only thing that might have perfected this dish even more so, is just a little more refinement on the plate in terms of presentation. Otherwise, I really am nitpicking because it was practically perfect.
For our main course and after what already felt like a multi-course tasting menu, we tucked into a Peroo biryani. Norfolk black turkey breast cooked with a layer of Himalayan basmati rice and spices. On the side was a sage & wild mushroom raita and what was for me the revelation – lamb pickle. We’ve all had lime pickle with our popadoms before, but Saurav had created a rich, more intense version and mixed it with boldly flavoured chunks of slow-cooked lamb. It’s something I’m going to have to seek out in the future.
If we didn’t already have a feast on our table, the sides surely turned it into a banquet. Sauteed pumpkin with mustard seeds & curry leaf. New potatoes in an aromatic gravy and perfectly cooked naans & rotis. Everything was just a sheer delight to eat and complimented that turkey beautifully.
To finish what had been a truly marvellous supper club, a small bowl filled with spiced poached quince & ice cream. Cinnamon & star anise flavoured quince poached in a hibiscus infused syrup ice cream, toasted pistachio & a cocoa nibs crumble.
After Covid and its endless lockdowns, it was so lovely to return back to one of Humayun’s supper clubs and to yet again experience Chef Saurav’s cooking. I only hope I’ll be visiting another very soon – because they truly are fabulous and it was great to see the event packed to the brim. If you’re looking for an Indian supper club with Michelin starred perfection and an evening of mouth-watering dishes – then look no further because it truly is a night to remember and fantastic value for money. Would we come back? Of course!
