Opened under the leadership of Steven Ellis, previously of The Oxford Blue in Old Windsor with his wife Ami as head pastry chef. This gorgeous little pub is nestled away on the gates of The Windsor Great Park, offering up some serious food and dishes that feel more Michelin starred than pub grub. Steven’s trained under the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Clare Smyth over the years and you can really tell because the quality and precision of just about everything is exceptional.
Aside from a glass of something chilled and sparkling, there are two things you absolutely must start your meal with here and one being the complimentary bread. Served in a brown paper bag which is ripped open tableside, this bread baked by Ami is the stuff of dreams. Fluffy on the inside and oh-so crunchy and toasty on the outside. If you can glance past that glorious butter, you can see the stream of smoke seeping out into the room.
Don’t eat too much of that bread because you’ll need room for one of their snacks and a must is these golden crunchy balls. They’re Windsor Great Park Venison bonbons with mustard mayonnaise. So succulent and so delicious – you’ll want to order more to take home with you. Taking advantage of the local produce right on their doorstep, Steven’s even struck up a relationship with the Gamekeeper of The Windsor Great Park, meaning that The Bailiwick will benefit exclusively from exceptional ingredients throughout the seasons. One being this venison which was fresh from the morning’s hunt.
To start? A good old British classic, but given a modern twist. This might look more like your regular pâté-croûte, but this is, in fact, a ploughman’s pâté-croûte. Excellent pastry which is holding in not only one, but three types of ham, a thick slab of mature cheese, sweet pickle and even celery. This was probably one of my favourite dishes of 2021.
With an ever-changing roast to choose from, we went for the dry-aged rib of beef which was every Sunday roast lovers dream. The meat had a nice bit of age to it, was packed with flavour, the fat melted in the mouth and portion-wise for two – we struggled to finish it all. If beef isn’t you’re thing, try the roast leg of lamb or Jimmy Butler’s roasted pork rack.
Did I mention the sides? Mixed vegetables, heavenly roast potatoes, rich cauliflower cheese and gargantuan Yorkshire puddings. The gravy served on the side was also fantastic. I’m not quite sure what magic went into it – but I couldn’t help but drown my plate in the stuff.
To finish, a hearty plate of cheese accompanied by a fine selection of crackers and the most stunning of desserts. From the homemade bread to the crackers and the patisserie creations – the pastry chef here, Ami Ellis has some serious talent.
Our dessert was the lemon parfait made to look like a real lemon. Inside it was rich and dreamy and served alongside it was a chunky smear of burnt meringue and for extra citrus – verbena. It may not have been feeling like the end of Summer outside, but it did feel like it here on the table with this dessert.
If you’ve read this review, then I’m sure you can tell what we thought of The Bailiwick – but if you’re skimming to the end then let me say this now – you need to visit ASAP. Inside it’s fresh, but cosy. The staff are exceptional. The wine list is short, but perfectly formed and the food (especially the roast) is absolutely fantastic. Next time I’m in Windsor I certainly know where I’ll be visiting. Would we come back? of course!
