Usually, the only thing bad about Indian food, is the calories. All that butter and clarified ghee, endless deep fried popadoms and who knows what else deliciously evil to the waist line. But what if I told you that not only a restaurant, but an entire restaurant group (Masala Zone, Chutney Mary, Amaya) prides itself on cooking Indian food with quality ingredients and modern cooking techniques. Veeraswamy – the UK’s oldest Indian restaurant on Regent Street aims to do just that. Still family owned, the restaurant uses authentic culinary processes which have been handed down through the generations and it really shows in the cooking. The food here might look and taste dangerously good, but none of it is bad for you – in moderation of course.
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Whilst we enjoyed the gorgeous surroundings of the the restaurant and view from the window table looking down onto Regent Street, we tucked into a cocktail (or two). My favourite was their Royal Salute. A rather dangerous concoction of Bombay Sapphire, apricot brandy and orange juice. It might taste like one of your five a day, but you’ll be stumbling a little on the way out after – which in my books means a good value cocktail.
We arrived just as the sun was starting to set and so watching the light go down on Regent Street from the warmth of our seat was a rather magical experience. Especially once the food arrived. Admittedly, these chicken bhaji served on their bones and wrapped with foil for easy nibbling weren’t what I expected (neither good or bad). But take one bite and you’ll be left wishing you had room for more. Equally as good was the bhatti ka paneer. I won’t give too much away and will leave something for the imagination – but it’s paneer taken to all new heights. If you’re looking at these dishes on the menu, order both – they might just change your life.
From the starters, or shall I say sharing dishes, this Raj kachori has to be not only the restaurants most famous dish, but one of their best. A huge puffed wheat puri filled with goodies and splashed with chutneys and pomegranates. I’ve had this dish before here many years ago and it’s just as good as I remember. All those textures, spices, sweet and sour mouthfuls – utter heaven.
The best dish of our entire dining experience (sorry Raj kachori) was the patiala shahi raan en croute. I’ve got absolutely no idea what the latter even begins to mean, but but what I do know is this golden, crispy casing is filled to the brim with the softest and juiciest Welsh lamb shank which has been slowly cooked for at least 6 hours. The smell when it arrives at the table is so exciting, but wait till you cut into it. The steam releases all of the spices around the table and a rich, silky smooth sauce for pouring over it makes for one incredible dish. If you come here for anything, make sure it’s this dish. It’s no wonder Veeraswamy have held a Michelin star for all these years when they’re serving up dishes like this one.
To accompany such an incredible dish, needs an array of delicious sides and curries. Rich and velvety dal palak, zesty pineapple curry, spicy chettinad aloo and yet another fantastic dish – Travancore prawn curry. The latter made up of turmeric, red chilli, coconut, kokum flower and plump juicy prawns.
To finish – the best kulfi I’ve had in years. This kulfi was beautifully moulded into roses and had the most delicious texture, whilst the rose flavour was perfumed and intense – but with none of that artificial flavour too many of them often have. Having eaten what felt like a mountain of food, this was the perfect way to near the end of our meal.
Before heading off into the night, we tucked into an espresso martini and reflected on what has been yet another fantastic meal in London’s oldest Indian restaurant. Price wise this won’t be the cheapest meal of your life, but neither is it too expensive and for the quality – it’s worth every penny. Would we come back to Veeraswamy? Of course we would!!
