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The kind of place you’ll remember for decades. That’s how Restaurant Gordon Ramsay is described in this piece previously written here about the best places to eat in London. It’s a lofty description, but one people might expect of the flagship restaurant of one of the most famous restaurateurs (and chefs) in the world. But the important question, as always with any place with such a heavy-hitting reputation, is whether it can live up to the hype.
In recent years there’s actually been some doubt about Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. Notably, a review in Eater published in 2018 questioned certain aspects of the restaurant. Critic Fay Maschler suggested that resident Chef de Cuisine Matt Abé might not be able to live up to the standard set by his predecessor, Clare Smyth. She also described service as being “so attentive as to feel like being ‘in intensive care,’” and seemed to imply that a less-than-appealing old-fashioned vibe had robbed the establishment of the sense of soul or inventiveness it ought to possess. Mind you, it’s not as if Maschler was implying a problem with the food, nor the quality of the presentation. Relative to the reputation and standard of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay though, it was a disappointing review.
It’s also important to bear in mind that this is a review given partially to answer the question of how fit Restaurant Gordon Ramsay is for Michelin stars. That is to say, it’s a critic’s review for critics, more than for the average diner, or perhaps a person visiting the establishment to check it off of a foodie bucket list. So, in a more ordinary context, what should you expect at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay today?
The first thing — if you’re visiting because you’re familiar with Gordon Ramsay — is a bit of an atmospheric surprise. Undoubtedly, you know of Gordon Ramsay as a world-class chef, but also as a loud, animated, and somewhat unpredictable entertainer. Watch and read about Ramsay long enough, and you’ll encounter plenty of stories that take your mind very far from the fine dining with which he made his name.
For instance, you may have seen Ramsay on American Road Trip, where a Foxy Bingo recap recalls him visiting a Texas saloon and participating in a game involving competitive chicken defecation. Maybe you’ve watched him travelling the world sampling cuisines and critiquing eateries in far-flung locations. Or perhaps you’ve taken in his recent antics judging cooks on TikTok — where Mashed pointed out that even his daughter didn’t escape criticism. The point is, Ramsay present an energetic, experimental persona — we think of him being out in the world, trying new and bizarre things, and always perfecting his craft one way or another.
In this respect, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay can almost be shocking. It’s refined to be sure, and probably more so than you might expect — but it is not experimental, nor particularly adventurous. It appears and feels more like the project of a more understated chef — a master, but one with an old-school sensibility and a taste for subtlety. The globetrotting, fowl-mouthed adventurer we know from television does not readily come to mind when one sits in this establishment.
Normally atmosphere and vibe wouldn’t be of such great concern, but let’s face it — when you eat at a Gordon Ramsay restaurant, you have the man himself in mind. But as to the actual food at this flagship London establishment, what can I say? Expect excellence. Even if critics have suggested the current staff aren’t quite matching past performance, it’s important to keep in mind that this is one of the finest restaurants in the United Kingdom, and you’re likely to have some of the most beautiful and well-prepared dishes you’ve ever imagined if you visit.
The menu is (as you likely know) French-inspired, though it also maintains a heavy focus on local and seasonal ingredients. I mentioned that you can expect beautiful dishes, and this is ultimately what may stand out the most. The plates at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay — whether you’re ordering the Heritage Carrots off of the vegetarian menu, the Pressed Foie Gras that seems to be a hit, or the Raspberry Soufflé dessert — are works of art. You can expect to see food presented so beautifully that you’d almost rather not eat it.
As for favourites, it’s difficult to single out one or two dishes. But the good news is that the menu at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay is kept fairly succinct — meaning if you go with friends or family (as you ought to go to any establishment so fine), you have the option of ordering a number of things together and sampling different items. That’s what I would recommend, at least. That said, the Cornish Turbot, Roast Pigeon, and the Pavlova dessert should not be missed!
