L’Ortolan Restaurant Review: Michelin Starred French Cooking in Reading by Tom Clarke

I’ve visited Reading quite a few times now over the years, with our last including a stay at Reading’s five-star hotel The Roseate which we thoroughly enjoyed, but in terms of food, there really isn’t too much in the way of destination restaurants here. Well, there wasn’t to my knowledge anyway – until I recently got invited to L’Ortolan.

Located just a very short taxi drive from Reading station (around 10 minutes) is this Grade II listed building that houses L’Ortolan. A one Michelin starred French restaurant which is looked after by Tom Clarke who took over the kitchens here in 2015. The restaurant has in the past been home to some of the countries most famous chefs and impressively, managed to keep its Michelin star for over 17 years. When you arrive, the grounds are gorgeous and so was the friendly welcome from staff who came out to greet us.

After our short drive from Reading, we sat in the conservatory room of the building to enjoy a pre-lunch cocktail and some canapés. It was such a lovely day outside and so a little bit of sunshine before we stepped into the main dining room was very much welcomed. The canapés we enjoyed were all utterly delicious and the cocktails were equally as impressive – so make sure you arrive early and make time for both.

Menu in hands and sat down to our table. If there was one thing this restaurant could do with on first glance, it’s a new lick of paint and some new (all white) tablecloths as decor was feeling a little bit dated and the food is so good here – it needs an equally good backdrop behind it. Tablecloths aside, we tucked into what was probably some of the best bread I’ve had all year. Sweet, sticky, fluffy and warm to the touch. I’ve been trying my hardest to refrain from eating bread this year (the endless diet) but there was no way I was going to waste bread this good, or indeed the butter.

As we were tucking into that bread, a small chefs appetiser appeared. A really lovely chunk of good quality salmon, in herb oil and topped with avocado, caviar and Nasturtium leaves – if memory serves me well.

My starter was one which turned out to be a signature of the restaurant and for good reason – it was stunning. A vividly coloured goose liver, with rolls of smoked duck ham and at the centre, an eye-catching swirl of mango puree. The sweetness, savouriness and acidity of this dish quite literally left me salivating. This was a really exciting and delicious plate of food to eat and so if you visit – order this.

Choosing a main course here was never an easy task as we wanted just about everything, but a good start was the squab roast pigeon with confit leg, kale, celeriac and blackberries. Rich, decadent and a reminder that Winter is finally on its way.

My favourite dish from our lunch was the exquisite chunk of halibut which I don’t think could have been cooked any better, even if the kitchen tried. This succulent poached halibut, came topped with a lobster raviolo, more caviar and smothered in a rich buttery sauce, truffle and leeks. I thoroughly enjoyed this dish and would love to eat it again.

Dessert (and cheese) was yet another showstopper. Toffee apple, filled with apple parfait, sprinkled with pecans and Caramac. The latter perhaps my favourite chocolate ever which brings back childhood memories. The selection of British & French cheeses served from the trolley were also stunning. Served with a selection of homemade raisin bread, biscuits and quince jelly.

We retired back into the bar after lunch, sipped on an expertly made espresso martini and tucked into some petit fours. Chocolate truffles, fruit jellies and toasted canelé. The perfect ending to what was a really lovely meal.

We travelled out of London for the day to L’Ortolan and I must say it was worth every minute of the journey which felt like it took no time at all. Yes, the restaurant does need updating, but the exterior is beautiful, the service is polished and the food fantastic. Would we come back? Absolutely!

NB: My meal was complimentary. All views are as always, my own. My views are not influenced by anyone other than my own palate and slightly poor eyesight.