Bordeaux, it’s one of the greatest wine growing regions in the world. We’ve all drunk a wine from this region in our time (I work in wine), but the one thing not enough of us do is visit the places that grow and make the wines we drink back home. Bordeaux will always be a place I’d recommend to anyone looking for a wine focused holiday, but there are so many other reasons why you should visit this part of France.
There are some of the best restaurants in the world here, stunning Chateau properties, fields of vineyards which go on for days and picture perfect bistros (such as the gorgeous Cafe Lavinal). This was our fourth visit to the city and its surroundings and on this occasion, we checked into Cordeillan-Bages for our first night. A magical Relais & Chateaux property in the heart of Paulliac and home to a one Michelin starred restaurant by chef Julien Lefebvre.
Every table at the Cordeillan-Bages restaurant offers a unique atmosphere. It’s spacious and minimalistic décor is enhanced with paintings by famous artists and the room opens up onto the utterly gorgeous terrace with views across the vineyard. My advice, enjoy an aperitif outside first – before coming in to the luxurious surroundings of the dining room.
Whilst we looked over the menus and enjoyed our aperitif glass of Champagne, we tucked into the most amazing selection of canapés. Served on what looked like a very old wine vine, it was the perfect presentation given the location and each bite was such a joy to eat, giving us a glimpse of what executive chef Julien Lefebvre was getting up to in the kitchen.
We chose from the Menu Millésime which was priced at €95 for 4 courses. After we’d enjoyed those incredible canapés, a small amuse bouche arrived and the most incredible bread. So good in fact, I’d return just for a few slices. Home-made butter for spreading and a complex olive oil for dipping. At this point we also started with our first wine, the Blanc de Lynch-Bages 2017. It’s since become my new favourite white wine, offering all the freshness one could want from a Bordeaux blanc – but with a lovely depth and complexity.
Our first dish was probably one of the richest dishes I’ve eaten all year. Soft boiled egg smoked with hay, celeriac puree, green apple and corn flour bread rings to top. The egg itself was absolutely incredible and I don’t think I’ve ever had one this good. The creaminess of the dish, married with the freshness of the apple and precise celery flavour. This was honestly one of the best things I ate in Bordeaux and it paired perfectly with that white wine we were drinking.
Another dish I fell completely in love with was this poached lemon sole in a lemon scented sauce with sweet potatoes, cuttlefish, pickled seaweed and a Jura wine jus. The fish, flaking away at the sight of my fork and a side of slow-cooked fennel which was stunning in its own right.
Braised beef cheek, Prince de Bretagne artichokes, caramelised potatoes and a jus good enough to melt your heart. Visually it looked so inviting and in the mouth, it didn’t disappoint. An explosion of favours, the seasoning was practically perfect and the beef cheek was so soft. To pair, Ormes de Pez 2005. Another wine made by the Famille JM CAZES. It had all of those classic Bordeaux notes, well-structured and good acidity – but also incredibly refined with tannins that coated the inside of your mouth. Delicious.
Executive chef Julien Lefebvre obtained one Michelin star for this restaurant last year in 2018 and you can really see why, especially with desserts such as this one. Reading it on the menu I was expecting a classic opera cake, something I’m not usually a fan of – but it was so much more than that. A deconstructed medley of chocolate biscuit and coffee cream, crispy buckwheat, clementine sorbet and who knows what else. Easily the best opera cake you’re ever likely to eat.
We finished up on a truly stunning selection of petit fours, before heading back out into the sunshine and only wishing we had more time to spend here. I absolutely adored our meal at this beautiful hotel and if I was ever back in the area, we’ll be stopping by again because I’ve no doubt this restaurant and its executive chef will continue to evolve and surprise. Would we come back to Château Cordeillan-Bages? Absolutely!
Fabulous modern and sleek interiors, delicious cuisine inn such a stunning location. What more could one want? I’, going to have to agree with you, not the greatest fan of opera cake but this looks exquisite!
This looks amazing! I remember the first time I ate in a Michelin starred restaurant (Sat Bains in Nottingham) – I was never really convinced of the hype until I experienced it myself. For about 2 weeks afterwards, anything we ate felt very mediocre in comparison!
What beautiful food! I love the presentation!