It’s official. I’ve found my favourite new restaurant in London and right at the end of 2018. What a way to end the year! My only regret is not taking lots of photos of the gorgeous interiors here at Core by Clare Smyth as it really sets the scene for the food. A simple, but sumptuous bar as you walk in and a floor to ceiling window into the kitchen which separates the gorgeous dining room.
Core opened in 2017 and from the moment the news came out, it was all everyone was talking about. Clare Smyth previously held three stars for Gordon Ramsay at his famous Hospital Road site and so for London to potentially gain another two or three stars, it was an exciting addition. Clare greeted every single diner who entered the restaurant and in the excitement, we sipped on one of 2018’s finest Martini’s – with a twist of course.
Core is now the proud owner of two Michelin stars and given the credentials behind this place and the level of cooking – it’s amazingly well priced. The full tasting menu is £115, the small tasting menu £95 or a three courses a la carte starting from £65.
We went for the full tasting menu and shortly after a selection of the most amazing canapés arrived. Jellied eel’s with toasted seaweed and malt vinegar. Foie gras parfait and Madeira on a moss-covered log. Cheese and onion gougères. And my favourite – crispy smoked duck wing with burnt orange and spices. Each little bite was pure perfection, but those smoked crispy duck wings were so special and left us all wishing we had more.
When it comes to purity and quality – this Isle of Mull scallop had a story to tell. Chopped down into a tartare and soaking up a sea vegetable consommé, this tasted fresher than any scallop I’ve tried before. The smell, the texture, the colours. You could really taste the ocean in this dish and I’d love to come back and try it again. For research purposes of course.
Not only my favourite dish at Core, but of my entire 2018 was this ‘potato and roe’. A single skin-on Charlotte potato, this was without a doubt the best potato I’ve ever eaten and I’m desperate to find out where they’ve sourced it from. The whole thing then sits in a dulse beurre blanc which was quite unlike anything I’ve ever eaten. Silky and buttery in texture, with so much gloss you could almost see your reflection. The roe, caviar and potato crisps then added a touch of saltiness which took the dish to even higher heights. In my opinion this is Core’s signature dish and I hope it never leaves the menu.
I loved everything we ate here at Core, but perhaps the one dish I had some reservations about was this skate with Morecambe Bay shrimps, Swiss chard and brown butter. The fish was stunning and so was the smell of the brown butter sauce, though perhaps the sauce was ever so slightly too sweet for the fish and in some mouthfuls a few remaining sugar crystals. An exquisite dish still, but one I had only slight criticism for.
One of the dishes I’ve been seeing a lot of across social media is this ‘lamb carrot’. Originally I thought it was just a simple carrot from Instagram snaps, but when I realised it was topped with braised lamb – I knew it was going to be special. This single carrot was packed with so much flavour and sweetness, the slow-cooked braised lamb was carefully placed on top and a small puddle of sheep’s milk yoghurt sat within the jus. The rich, glossy jus itself was stunning and married everything together so beautifully. If that wasn’t already good enough, it was served with brioche buns filled with a meaty lamb centre – perfect for mopping up those juices.
One dish which yet again made me fall in love with Core was this piece of duck with nectarine, thyme, honey and Timut pepper. The little dollops of gel were lavender-scented I believe and flavour wise delicious on their own, but completely lost on the duck. The duck had such perfectly crisp fat which melted in the mouth, and the meat was perfectly pink on the inside, cutting through like butter – but still full of texture in the mouth.
Cheese course was nothing short of amazing and again the quality of everything on the table was exquisite. The blue cheese melted in your mouth, the seeded crackers were flaky and the bowl of honey, breads and pickled onions were dangerously addictive.
The Core of Clare Smyth isn’t just one single dish, but everything and everyone who have helped create what you see today. One dessert however felt like something which has stemmed from the centre of Core’s core – the ‘Core apple’. I had a whole paragraph ready to describe this dish but instead I’m leaving it for you to discover yourself because with blogs and social media these days, we’re really missing that element of surprise. I also loved the pear and verbena dessert creation – another dish I’ll let you discover for yourself.
Petit fours came in the form of ‘Sauternes and Banyuls’ jellies which were divine (especially with our glasses of grappa) and mini chocolate tarts arrived warm and gooey.
Core by Clare Smyth was a nothing short of extraordinary and a meal I will truly never forget. Yes the dining is gorgeous, Clare seems genuinely lovely and the food is exquisite – but I think what Core excel in is its service. I’ve not had service this good in some and truly it was world-class. I travel all over London for food and Notting Hill is an area which no restaurant has really captured my heart until now so if you want my advice – book a table – because the waiting list is already over three months.
