Plate Restaurant Review: Modern British Dining with a Delicious French Flair in Shoreditch

There really is nothing better than discovering the chefs you thought you’d lost forever, working at another restaurant in the same city. I used to love spending time at SixtyOne in Marble Arch a few years ago now and when it closed, I was so sad. But by a chance meeting a few weeks back after I was invited to review Plate Restaurant at the M by Montcalm Hotel in Shoreditch, it turned out that all these same chefs I loved were working here right under my nose. The style of food has changed since how I remember it previously – but the cooking is still just as good.

The restaurant is overseen by French born & classically trained chef Arnaud Stevens who comes with a stellar CV and the kitchen looked after by executive chef Matt Hill and head chef Josh Dawson. There’s a catering business behind Plate, an artisan bakehouse downstairs and of course the main restaurant which also serves a really great (I’ve tried it) bottomless ribs & wings menu each Thursday priced at just £10! To settle us in we ordered what turned out to be my best Bloody Mary of the year and a truly excellent concoction named – The Fog Smasher.

While sipping the remains of our cocktails we ordered Plate’s signature bread flight to start. The most amazing sourdough, decadent brioche and rich Marmite loaf. The were all served with whipped & seasonal butters – my favourite being the chicken skin flavour. Utter heaven.

For me the best dish of the entire lunch was this vibrant plate of tomatoes and really it should become their signature. Every element of it was exquisite and describing the flavours is impossible – you simply need to try it. A mixture of Nutbourne heritage tomatoes, creamy lemon ricotta, crispy fennel bread and tomato dressing. Each different coloured tomato had a unique flavour, from sweet & cured, to smokey and intense. The lemon flavour of that ricotta was also magical.

Equally as impressive was the Chalk Farm seatrout with a  gravadlax dressing, pink peppercorn yoghurt and compressed cucumber. It was so fresh as a dish and that trout tasted like it was just plucked out of the water. The yoghurt was a really interesting addition too and turned this dish into something really special.

Main courses were of course just as good as they looked, both in presentation and in flavour. Best of the bunch was the British Isle rump of lamb with tomato fondue, anchovy, basil dressing and charred gem. Everything was so well executed on the plate and that lamb was stunning. The Creedy Carver chicken breast & thigh with wild garlic pesto and spring greens was also fantastic, though I only had one bite as my dining companion wouldn’t let me any closer.

The only one part of the meal I perhaps didn’t enjoy as much as the rest were the side dishes. Not bad by any means, but simply in comparison to the rest. The “Koffman” side was a mixture of cabbage, pancetta and celeriac. A nice flavour and a very famous dish, but I found it rather peculiar against the dishes on the menu. As with the Agata potatoes which were packed with crème fraiche, dill and chervil. Nice, but not stellar. If think the menu here needs more sides, including some classics such as chips, something roasted or even something cheesy – given a “Plate” twist.

Desserts for me were rather astonishing and executive pastry chef, Romi Verstappen really is one to watch closely. Banana with buckwheat speculoos, yoghurt and honeycomb was an absolute dream of a dessert and each bite was so satisfying. Better still was the coffee brûlée with chocolate ganache, flavours of amaretto and espresso ice cream. It was a sort of cross between the classic creme brûlée, but with a nod to tiramisu in terms of flavours. An absolutely faultless dessert and one I highly recommend ordering. I loved Romi’s desserts back when she worked at SixtyOne and they’re still just as good, if not better.

We had such a lovely afternoon at Plate Restaurant and it was great to be back eating with some of the same team from the old days. The food does feel very different here, but I love that it’s a little more relaxed and casual. With views looking down on the busy streets of London, dishes packed with flavour, cocktails to melt your heart and desserts you’ll want to take home. Arnaud and his team are doing a great job here and I’ll certainly be returning in the future.

NB: Our meal was complimentary. All views are as always, my own. My views are not influenced by anyone other than my own palate and slightly poor eyesight.