James Cochran EC3 Restaurant Review: Inventive Sharing Plates in The City of London

So just a few weeks ago I got an invite to a shiny new restaurant in EC3 and when I saw the postcode as the header, I almost instantly decided I wasn’t travelling to the other side of London again – until I saw the chef behind it all. James Cochran used to run a restaurant I absolutely adored called FIX in Hackney. Perhaps not the best location and why it no longer exists – the food however was not the issue and was absolutely stunning. Back then each plate was a work of art made for sharing and once again James has nailed it.

On top of the many delights of FIX, James Cochran has also been part of a very successful pop-up over the summer on Great Windmill Street in conjunction with B.Y.O.C. With all the praise from that Summer experience, the new James Cochran EC3 was born. Cosy booth seating and a delicious bottle of Granache wine later we tucked into a stunning single Whitstable rock oyster, topped with a spicy kimchi sauce which nicely hit the back of the throat.

Two of my favourite things from the entire menu actually came from the bar snacks selection. A neatly constructed cheese toasty, packed full of oozing melting cheese, then crisped and grilled to the perfect crunch. Proper comfort food and perfect for this time of year. Even better still was James’s legendary Jamaican jerk buttermilk chicken – served with pickled scotch bonnets, corn nuts and coriander. The perfect balance of spice and flavour. Each bite giving different textures and heat.

While everything may be meant for sharing, you won’t want to share any of it. Dishes such as James’s signature treacle cured smoked salmon is a must. Probably one the best pieces of cured salmon I’ve eaten this year and somehow it seems to have gotten even better than I fondly remember from before. It’s accompanied by dollops of cod roe, radish, rye and an apple whisky jelly. I loved the roast monkfish too, with pork collar, turnip, finger limes and buckwheat. A real taste sensation and cooked marvellously.

While of course the food here is all incredible, I’ve always remembered the front of house fondly too. Once for it being excellent and second for witnessing some truly spectacular footwear by front of house, Ross – who has been working with James from the beginning. Ross brought us out our next two dishes from the kitchen and by now you really felt you were in that “main” territory, but still for sharing. The roast breast and leg of guinea fowl with wild mushroom, potato dumplings and chestnuts was a real stunner of a dish. Cooked so well and every single flavour was so well-defined and with depth. Those knuckles of potato dumplings, essentially gnocchi were fantastic and the crockery stunning too. Star dish of the whole meal was the lamb neck and haunch, Jerusalem artichokes, smoked creme fraiche and hemp seeds – it was one of those dishes you could smell the moment it’s  put down and front of you and simply made you squirm a “wow” with your first mouthful. A dish you all need to experience here at EC3 and one I hope they never take off the menu.

Desserts of course were nothing short of spectacular, full of calories and nostalgic memories with modern interpretations of familiar sweet treats. Jersey milk parfait with roasted pineapple and sesame seeds was very unusual as a dessert. I’m not sure what I imagined but it wasn’t this – but I’m so happy it was. A sort of ice cream/nougat texture with those sesame seeds adding crunch in the mouth and the pineapple sweetness. But my favourite had to be the take on a Snickers – aptly named Snickerbockerglory. Layers of crumble, cream, caramel and who knows what else – but it was absolutely stunning. It even had a hint of a Dime bar too.

Its been amazing to go back and experience James’s cooking once again and see not only how he’s improved but how his style has subtly changed along the way, keeping up with the ever-changing London dining scene. If you’re looking for a slightly cooler, more exciting eating experience and fed up with suited and booted City dining – than James Cochran EC3 is the perfect evening escape and with some pretty fine food too which won’t cost you the earth.