Orso Restaurant Review: Old School Italian at Orso Restaurant in Covent Garden

You know, I do love an old school Italian. Homely service, charm, good wine and honest food. We used to spend quite a lot of time in Bologna some years back and here in the UK, nothing seems to ever match up. But it gets very close at least. One of those is Orso Restaurant in Covent Garden. A London institution which my friends and family have been coming back to time and time again. I really had no idea until I told them where I’d booked a table. I started my Italian journey here with a signature cocktail – The Orso. A mix of Prosecco and pink grapefruit. An Aperol spritz, of sorts – with just a little less bite.

Starters were the best part of our Orso experience. Simple, classic Italian offerings with no frills – but executed perfectly. I loved the smoked burrata, aubergine and rocket – creamy, a little sour and that smokiness ran through it like silk. The calamari fritti – another foolproof dish. Here they coated each ring with a fantastic golden breadcrumb, almost brown bread in its flavour. It was wonderfully seasoned too, but that calamari could have done with a little more care when cooking. Not fully overcooked, but on the verge – so we had to eat up quick!

Main courses were another couple of delightful plates of food. They won’t be winning awards anytime soon, but as I said, they’re honest, Italian and while cooking can be a little off in some elements – there’s something about the food here which is so satisfying. Favourite was the pasta course. A bowl piled high with home-made ravioli, stuffed with a goats cheese and red pepper filling. The whole dish is then smoothed in one of life’s best pleasure – sage butter. If you ever make it down to Orso, pasta is a very safe bet. The veal escalope with prosciutto, fontina cheese and spinach was about as 80’s as it gets. Moist veal, cheese, salty ham – it may look a little simple, but in the mouth it was anything but. The side of tomato salad with basil and onion was the perfect accompaniment.

I’m still amazed that each time I tuck into a tiramisu, it’s always different. It really is the only dessert which has a thousand variations, each stemming from a family recipe or more often nowadays – deconstructed. Orso serve up a thick slab, doused in lots of coffee and with an excellent marscapone cream. It wasn’t the best tiramisu I’ve ever eaten, but by god was it satisfying. And good value too.

In fact the whole menu here is good value. Aperol spritz at under a fiver, pastas all under £15 and desserts a steal – especially considering you’re in the heart of theatreland and slap bang in the centre of Covent Garden. If you’re looking for a simple Italian supper, central London location and terrific service then Orso is a must. After all, they have been operating for over 30 years.

NB: I was invited to review and my meal was complimentary. All views are as always, my own. My views are not influenced by anyone other than my own palate and slightly poor eyesight.