So just the other night I ended up at a Circus believe it or not. OK well not exactly, but it felt like it, and the weirdest part – I was in the centre of Covent Garden. Circus restaurant opened up a few years back and since then has been one of London’s best entertainment hotspots. When you think London couldn’t possibly give you any more – it gives you circus. An insanely bizarre and fun restaurant full of acrobats, fire eaters, dancers, hula hoopers, delicious cocktails and a Pan-Asian food menu overlooked by head chef, Andrew Lassetter.
Circus really needs to be seen for itself. A huge white table sits prominently as you walk in, home to both the entertainment and a full set of diners – it’s the best view in the house. We took a seat slightly out-of-the-way next to the bar, perfect for seeing over the restaurant, and also close to the bar. Cocktails are a real highlight here. Perfectly poured creations which are surprisingly good value. The Mystic Cactus was our favourite of the night, made up of Olmeca Altos Blanco, fresh lime juice, Asian spiced blood orange, chipotle chilli, dash of citrus bitters and orange blossom mist. A heavenly spicy mix of ingredients packing a good punch.
And then the circus started. The lights dimmed, the strobes went on, even metal shutters came down – blocking off the kitchen from the restaurant. Acts then seemingly appear from nowhere, walking out onto the stage. The hula-hoop man, with the body of a hunk and face of Boy George (bizarre I know), arrived with around 6 hoops and fully clothed. By the end he was down to a tiny pair of hot pants, spinning hoops from his neck, legs and arms. Both filthy, and impressive. Two guys in wigs slapping a table in unison was also weirdly addictive to watch. Acts come on for about two minutes each and in 30 minute intervals.
Once the shutters went back up, the lights came on and the food was served. For starters we tucked into a delicious yellow tail sashimi, smothered in truffle soy, jalapeno, pickled beetroot and fennel. A little pricey at £15 for the quantity, but quality wise it was money well spent. The dish was then completely overshadowed by the most amazing lobster tempura. Each morsel of sweet lobster was encased in a golden crunchy coating, served alongside a white truffle aioli and lemon ponzu. Words can’t even begin to describe how much enjoyment this dish gave.
Main courses were just as spectacular, but one needed to be eaten rather quickly. The New York strip loin was a fantastic piece of meat, with a truffle teriyaki sauce for dipping and served on a bed of hot rocks. A nice idea and very effective when it arrived, but for medium-rare steak eaters you need to remove the meat immediately before it over cooks. Next time I’ll ask them to serve it rare. My second favourite dish (the lobster tempura can’t be shaken off number one) of the evening were these perfectly cooked giant prawns with daikon, green beans, cherry tomatoes and shiso leaf. A lovely dish, especially with our third stage performance of the evening just starting.
A quick cocktail break with a classic Old Fashioned and Negroni helped serve as a digestif and ease us into dessert. The desserts here are a real strong point of Circus. Expect very well executed, satisfying creations with a million calories squeezed in. Chocolate and caramel fondant with a malt & milk ice cream was as good as it gets, yet it got even better still with a passion fruit cheesecake. Delicate, light and revealing a runny passionfruit filling. If you’re not a dessert fan, you will be after Circus.
Circus is without a doubt the most weird and wackiest restaurant I’ve visited in a very long time. There’s entertainment, terrific cocktails and delicious food – creating a night to remember. They somehow even manage to make this place classy, with a slightly naughty edge. If you haven’t visited Circus – then go now. You won’t be disappointed.
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