You know, some places just have it all – well almost anyway. One of those “have-it-all” venues is a cosy brasserie in Brook Green, named Mustard. And when I say “almost” I’m simply referring to its location. I’m not going to sugar coat it, but it’s not in the most glamorous of locations on a slightly busy main road. But step inside and it’s an oasis of pure heaven. You’d have no idea there was a busy road just outside. One afternoon we took up a table on the terrace for a spot of people watching and trying to avoid the impending rain. After a few minutes all the traffic noise seemed to dissolve and instead turned into endless conversation and the clanging of our cutlery.
The cocktails here at Mustard really are rather good. They’re incredibly well mixed, the flavours are punchy with a good alcoholic hit and the prices are even better. A perfectly poured “Pimms Bubbles” will set you back a mere £4.95, while a colourful “Brandy Sour” at £7.50 was a steal. If you’re not at all hungry and in the area, I’d highly recommended a long boozy afternoon here, it would be great fun – I’ve already got it in the diary.
While we were sipping on cocktails and browsing the menu, our very lovely waitress coaxed us into the sharing platter for two. Honestly it didn’t even catch my eye at first, but I’m so glad we experienced it. I tweeted on the day, saying how simplicity is sometimes best and how much this sharing platter was testament to those words. Such a brilliant showcase of ingredients. All so fresh and all so full of flavour. The olives were crunchy and nutty, the Cumbrian ham was soft and rich, while the toasted wholemeal bloomer, spread with an apple sauce was a dream come true. I’ll be spreading apple sauce over everything at home now – but I know it will never taste this good.
Starters here were more like sharing plates, so order as many as you can because of the two we ate, faults were a hard thing to come by. Lightly fried Cornish squid was as perfect as perfect could be. Golden, crunchy, the soft squid cooked perfectly and it was all seasoned so well that you didn’t even dare think of reaching for the salt & pepper pots. The tartare sauce was equally as good with a nice tartness and punchy finish. Crispy free range pork belly came in the form of deep-fried coated goodness with a spiced crab apple puree for dipping and crispy sage leaves for garnish. I’d thought I died and went to heaven for a brief moment.
Main courses were just as spectacular, if not better. Simple, but perfectly executed dishes full of flavour and quality. My dining companion settled down to a gorgeous chunk of roasted cod with a rosemary salt and served with a fresh and vibrant garden salad. A lovely summery plate of food which was made only better with a side of creamy and buttery mash. The favourite however was a good old classic, sirloin steak with excellent fries and a little pot of mustard on the side. It was simply perfect.
Dessert was most probably the area in which Mustard could do with improving on. They weren’t bad by any means, but neither did they match up to the rest of our meal. The flourless chocolate cake looked rich and sultry, but unfortunately lacked depth – though its delicate flavour and smooth texture just about satisfied our sweet tooth. Better was the gooseberry and gin crumble. The whole thing was laced with hints of lavender and drizzled with custard – my favourite part of it all. I’m a sucker for anything with lavender in it.
Finishing up on a well-prepared espresso martini it was sadly time to leave, and very reluctantly. Mustard Restaurant was not at all the experience I was expecting, surpassing all of my expectations and more – with seasonal, quality and responsible sourcing at its core. With great service and delicious drinks to top it off, I may have well just found my favourite British brasserie in London. Book now, before everyone else finds out about this place – because it’s only a matter of time.
