Gilgamesh is as much a part of Camden life as the shops and stalls selling eclectic nic nacs. The restaurant is a canvas for cultural art, colours and carvings and is known by pretty much every person I speak too, yet none of them have been – why? Seating for perhaps two hundred people, diners can enjoy a pan-Asian dining experience in an unobstructed space focusing on quality sushi and sashimi, featuring a retractable roof for those warmer days and nights, alongside a delectable choice of two bars – one dark and cosy, the other modern and airy.
We opted for the light & airy bar which offers a wide selection of cocktails, with fantastic views over the market – perfect for people watching while sipping on a delicious chilli infused concoction. As we sit and enjoy our drinks, the venue gets busier and busier by the second, with locals, couples and groups, all seemingly celebrating a special occasion. That’s what I love about Gilgamesh, it never disappoints in terms of atmosphere and even the food is getting better and better with every visit. It may look a little gimmicky in some areas but it takes its food and drink very seriously indeed.
To kick-start our Asian inspired dining experience was a sharing selection of regionally inspired dishes of edamame with spicy bonito (deliciously moorish), tender and flavourful salmon sashimi, meaty sesame prawn spring rolls and a refreshing duck with watermelon salad. A really enjoyable selection of tastes, each satisfying the palate with varying textures and aromas – not to mention the sashimi served absolutely beautifully with dry ice pouring out all over the table. Arriving last from the starters however was the epic duck and watermelon salad with cashew nuts, mint and coriander. It’s the third time I’ve had this dish and somehow it seemed even better this time, it’s one of Gilgamesh’s signature dishes and for very good reason.
To follow we chose to share our mains of slow cooked beef short rib with chive potato and char-baked fillet of salmon, marinated in miso with candy beetroot pickles. The beef was the overall winner of the two, with all its deep flavours and oh-so juicy meat. The salmon delivered on flavour, but was ever so slightly over cooked – with a little extra care it could be really great. The side of jasmine rice was sticky and wonderfully fragrant, pairing well with both dishes. Being a little greedy, we added a side of hand-cut chips, which were crispy and fluffy – we almost ordered another portion. Pairing with all of our food was a beautifully crisp bottle of Provence rose, the wine of choice for anyone who can’t decide – it goes with just about everything.
To finish, despite having been recommended the panna cotta, we decided on the yuzu meringue tart with violet meringue, hibiscus and lemon. It arrived in a deconstructed format, with a real depth of flavour to it and lovely balance of textures. It’s not the best dessert you’ll ever eat but as Asian inspired desserts go it was pretty successful and its racingly high acidity will leave you salivating. Next time we’ll have to try the panna cotta.
Overall Gilgamesh is a very interesting venue which will always impress whether it’s for drinks or food, offering some really excellent cuisine in an unusual and exciting environment. It does seem very popular, but I’m not sure if they have a regular and loyal client base or if it’s a must see and try, if only once sort of place. Good food is always a reason to return, so on that basis, I’ll be back for more. Gilgamesh offers fantastic set menus and ours was a steal at £55, offering more food than we could ever have attempted to eat and most importantly – its improved since my last visit, making this a restaurant to watch.
7.5/10
