REVIEW: Ocean Restaurant, The Atlantic Hotel, Saint Brelade, Jersey

So just a few weeks ago I was walking around the island of Jersey in nothing more than an untucked shirt (and trousers of course), basking in the sun – while dipping my toes into a pristine blue swimming pool. From London it was just a mere 35 minute plane journey, yet it felt like we’d arrived somewhere in the Mediterranean. It was pure heaven, as was the hotel we were staying at – The Atlantic Hotel. A beautiful hotel perched alongside the cliffs looking out over sea, complete with sumptuous dining room and space for al fresco dining in the summer months. What more could you ask for?

Ocean Restaurant at The Atlantic Hotel is led by head chef, Mark Jordan and currently holds one Michelin Star (which its held onto since 2007) and four AA Rosettes. Mark has created something very special here, working closely with island producers to utilise the finest and freshest produce that Jersey’s coast and countryside has to offer which you can really taste in the food. Our tasting journey here started with a buttery glass of Taittinger Champagne in the lobby, before delving into a jelly amuse bouche at our table and some excellent, freshly baked home-made bread.

The food at Ocean restaurant is exquisite. So much attention to detail goes into everything here – I can only imagine the team is armed with a set of tweezers and some very steady hands. Our first dish was one that was perhaps a little old-fashioned – but it was absolutely stunning. To look at you’d expect it to be a little simple and I guess it was, but the flavour shone through and made for a dish I can still even recall today. The chunks of sweet lobster had been fished out from the seas that morning from the overlooking bay and the meat pressed together with Jersey leeks, then topped with Ebène caviar and crème fraîche. Words can’t even begin to describe just how much enjoyment this plate of food gave. Jersey beef tartar was next to arrive, alongside some foie gras mousse, oyster ceviche and a watercress mayonnaise. The beef was extraordinary.

We ate from the a la carte menu during our evening, which turned out to be a wise choice. Selecting dishes from both land and sea. Jersey may be known for its seafood, but the meat and vegetables are also just as impressive. It’s remarkable just what this tiny island can offer. Honey roast breast of Gressingham duck was cooked to sheer perfection, showing off a crisp skin which released pockets of hot oil when bitten into. Oddly the dish came with a huge chunk of foie gras (odd because it wasn’t described on the menu) – however I had no complaints. Celeriac puree, compressed apple and a sweet vanilla jus made up the rest of this dish. I’m not entirely sure if Ocean Restaurant has a signature dish, but if not this should be it – a beautifully presented creation of Jersey beef, lobster ravioli, lobster claw and beef Marmite jus – which was out of this world. Alongside the dish we were served a small glass, filled with a dauphinoise cappuccino of sorts, I expected it to be a little gimmicky – but instead it was nothing short of incredible.

Preparing us for our dessert, a pre-starter was arrived which consisted of a raspberry (or was it strawberry) sorbet, which sat swimming in a concentrated juice of the same fruit. Very sweet but very refreshing. It was shortly followed by the favourite of our two desserts – 55% valrhona pave with cocoa nib streusel and a praline ice cream which was so good they should be parking a mini ice cream trolley out back by the pool in the summer months, alongside a Champagne stand – just an idea for my return visit (hint hint). A glazed Banana with toffee popcorn and caramel ice cream was a satisfying affair but given my hatred for popcorn, it wasn’t my favourite. That said my dining companion absolutely loved it, and the popcorn.

One word of warning when visiting Ocean Restaurant – come hungry. The food here is not only rich and decadent, but also very generous when it comes to portion sizes. We left almost crawling back to our room – with a stop in the bar first of course for an espresso martini night-cap. The Ocean Restaurant isn’t just a restaurant – it’s an experience that encompass all that Jersey has to offer as an Island, which is only helped by the staff here who are all impeccable, on all counts – from the wine pairings, service and hospitality. The Ocean Restaurant at The Atlantic Hotel is world-class.

9/10