My first time in Ireland would you believe – shame on me. Funnily enough most of my family come from Ireland, yet It’s a place I’ve just not had in the back of my mind as a place to visit, relax, eat and drink – until now of course. Only a couple of weeks back we visited the beautiful Galgorm Resort & Spa and was blessed with sun drenched weather – if not a bit cold. The resort is set in absolutely stunning grounds and features a state of the art indoor/outdoor spa area, three restaurants, a few bars, luxurious rooms and the River Maine – which runs directly through the grounds, separating the hotel from the surrounding forests. You really have to see it to appreciate all its eye watering beauty.
The head chef here at The River Room is the oh-so talented Jonnie Boyd. Jonnie is one of Northern Ireland’s leading chefs holding 3 AA Rosettes at Golgorm – however it’s missing a fourth and a Michelin star in my opinion. The dining room is rather unexpected too. There isn’t much on the website which gives an insight to its setting but it really is lovely. Very prim, proper and just a little bit decadent. The views looking down to the river were stunning. We got off to a great start with some home-made bread, local butter and some fantastic nibbles, not to mention a great couple of cocktails. There’s is a big focus on gin here, they even have a gin club, featuring well over 250 types and a good tonic menu to mix and match. Prepare to settle down here and never leave.
Menu wise here you’ll have a difficult time choosing but either way – go off the full tasting menu of seven courses. We went for five and while it was plenty, the food here is so good you won’t want to feel that you’ve missed out on two extra dishes. We started our incredible journey here in the River Room with a beautifully presented dish of Benvardin Estate wild rabbit, heritage carrots & Gracehill black pudding. The key to a lot of the food here is the list of amazing suppliers they use and trying to source as locally as possible. Our rabbit was a dream and cooked to perfection – but that black pudding was so incredible it took centre stage for me. Probably the best black pudding I’ve ever eaten in fact. Our second course of Kilkeel hand dived scallops were again beautifully cooked and cut through like better, while a single Portavogie langoustine melted in the mouth. The textures and balance of flavours was extraordinary and quite literally left us salivating, married together with kohlrabi, apple and guanciale (cured Italian pork meat). It’s dishes like these which make The River Room a destination restaurant.
Things continued to excite and astound the palate with a further two courses which arrived at the table piping hot (a rare occurrence these days), but not an ounce overcooked. Attention to detail is very meticulous here. Everything is placed just where it should be and any accompanying jus or sauce’s are poured to the perfect amount. Wild sea bass with razor clams, Gubben chorizo, squid and wild garlic was quite easily one of the best seafood dishes I’ve eaten all year too. So good in fact that on the second night we cancelled our dinner reservation elsewhere and came back here a second time round – but on a completely different menu. It was this course which really won me over and those razor clams were extraordinary. First time I had them and it certainly won’t be the last. Keeping in with the locally sourced theme our fourth dish was duck from Skeaghanore in West Cork – a stunning example of quality duck. Cavelo nero sat draped over the top, soaking up the silky smooth jus and complemented with shells of sweet onions, mushrooms and foie gras. Stunning.
Admittedly these two ale’s pictured above weren’t from this meal, but from dinner the second night, deserving of a special mention. Hillstown farm is, and always will be one of Northern Ireland’s top wagyu beef producers, but with a love of good booze they now brew their own beer – and it’s delicious. We sipped on a Goat’s Butt (not literally) and a Massey Red Ale which paired beautifully with some of our dishes – I’d even go as far as saying they could easily host a couple of beer/ale pairing evening’s for something slightly different. Dessert was one of (or should be) the restaurants signature dishes – Cuinneog butter milk panna cotta, forced rhubarb and Masserene honey. The textures were sublime, the flavours soft and full – and that rhubarb was to die for.
I may not have a wealth of experience of dining in Northern Ireland, but I do have a lot from across Europe so for that reason I feel rather confident in saying that The River Room at Galgorm Resort & Spa is the best restaurant in Northern Ireland. It has class, the food is stunning, the service second to none and with all things considering very good value for money – you get quality ingredients and precision cooking without the Michelin starred price tag. Unfortunately this restaurant doesn’t hold a star right now but I’ve no doubt it’s only a matter of time because the staff, kitchen team and hotel all deserve it. I can’t wait to come back.
9/10
