As a born and bred Londoner, getting out of London at the weekends has become rather frequent. The city has gotten so busy over the last few years (and I’ve got a few years older) that escaping to the countryside, small village or just an out-of-the-way location has become increasingly exciting. Time slows down, trains are quiet and the people are dare I say it – much more friendly. A short 30 min train journey from Clapham Junction and only £7 lighter (return ticket) we arrived at The Black Swan Ockham. An idyllic countryside pub with a very British menu utilising local and seasonal produce, a fantastic wine list and proper ales.
The Black Swan in Ockham is the sort of place you dream is your local. A roaring open fire as you walking in, the sultry smell of burning wood, soft fur furnishings, buzzy atmosphere and food to die for. The great thing about the menu here is that not only does it read very well, but it delivers on flavour. No broken promises or over describing – they tell you exactly how it is and it doesn’t disappoint. The choice of wine here is what really sets this pub apart from most others with a selection of fine wines by the glass from the enomatic machine. We settled in with some good bread, smoked butter and delicious glass of sweet & floral Gruner-Veltliner. Bliss.
Food wise we got off to a good start. Not mind-blowing but solid full-flavoured offerings and incredibly fresh. First out was a smoked mackerel, pickled cucumber, apple, dill & creme fraiche medley. While a relatively simple dish its construction of flavours and texture was expertly executed. When simple is done well it’s often the most satisfying. Even better still, and incredibly mouth-watering was the blood orange & radicchio salad with three heavenly blue vinny bon bons and light citrus dressing. I could have perhaps done with a fourth bon-bon, but otherwise I had no complaints.
Main courses here at The Black Swan I have to say, were faultless. My pork belly was astounding. Soft and juicy, well-seasoned, loads of flavour and the cracking had the perfect crunch – there was even a spiced roasted pear hiding underneath. The gravy was rich and glossy too but the star was those roasties. Crunchy, fluffy, buttery and the right shade of perfectly golden. If only my Sunday lunch was like this – sadly my roastie baking skills are to be desired, by no one. And the steak, what a beauty. One of the best pieces of bone in rib eye I’ve eaten in the last 12 months. It cut through like soft butter, had a deep meaty flavour, slathered in manchego butter (I know) and crisp just enough on the outside to add extra depth. A must order dish.
Desserts were still very nice here but in relation to everything else it’s perhaps where the kitchen could do with a bit of refinement and playing around to get them just right. The Normandy apple & almond tart, cinnamon ice cream was a lovely way to near the end of our meal. Great flavours and stunning ice-cream, the centre of the tart could have just been a little more moist however. Since early November I’ve also been “researching” by the way of a sticky toffee pudding discovery, a quest to find the best – this is my 27th example. I’m counting and it certainly sits in my top 15. It even sported this dishes classic trademark of leaving you completely incapable of walking from its sheer indulgence. Fantastic sponge, excellent sticky toffee sauce (and lots of it) but it just needed to be a little warmer.
The Black Swan Ockham is a fantastic little country pub which has so much to offer. The service is fantastic, the venue even better, the wine delicious and the food excellent. It may not be in London and it is technically slap bang in the middle of nowhere, but with such fantastic travel connections it’s worthy of the simple journey and relatively cheap travel costs. If you’re a local then lucky you but if not just go, order the steak and ask for a bowl of those blue vinny bon bons. You’ll have a great time.
8/10
