What’s generally the most underwhelming cuisine in Britain you ask? Well I’m sorry to say it, but it’s probably Mexican. I know it might sound like a bit of a sweeping, generalised statement but here in the UK Mexican food hasn’t quite hit the mark yet. There’s barely any high quality Mexican restaurants here in London and there’s only so many plumped up burritos you can eat – even then they’re served mainly on the street food scene, full of refried beans which are dry and taste like my old school dinners. Something needs to change. Chains such as Chilango are perfectly fine, but I don’t get excited. Wahaca on the other hand, while a chain – is very good at what it does. But now the reliable Wahaca has competition (well technically it doesn’t as they created this place) because DF/Mexico has arrived – and it’s bloody awesome.
Inside this newest Mexican addition it’s looking fantastic. It’s huge for a start, industrial in style, edgy, airy – but it still manages to retain a little homeliness about it. Not at one point did I feel just like another diner plopped down within the abyss of the space. The menu’s very well sized too, lots to choose from with the idea of ordering your food from the counter. That’s probably my biggest dislike overall, it’s not cool – it’s just plain annoying. Give the staff some iPads and let us be seated please. While working out what to eat off the delicious sounding menu we took to some tortilla chips. Very good tortilla chips – with quality, freshly made guacamole. I went to a Mexican pop-up only recently and had the worst guacamole I’ve ever encountered – so it was refreshing to dunk my chips into something this good.
Another thing I love about the space with it being so huge is they’ve managed to squeeze in small loading up stations, filled with sauces and some really fantastic soft drinks – including the all important bottomless refills. Lime & chia was sort of like a limeade – but better. Hibiscus juice was delicate, sweet and moorish. The most unusual, but in fact best of three drinks on offer was the Horchata – an almond based milk drink full of sweetness and spice, essentially it’s like drinking lighter cups of cold chai lattes. Sadly no free refills on the wine but for around £10 you get a huge carafe filled with the house red or white wine. A good, but very dangerous price – especially if I’m to be found anywhere close by.
Some of the main dishes started to arrive and by god were they good. They may have not been the most technical or show stopping of dishes to look at but never have I eaten Mexican food with so much flavour and refinement here in the UK. You could taste every ingredient, in every layer and in every dish. Steak & cheese alambres was one of the many toppings from the DIY Mexican Boards. Grilled steak, lashings of melted cheese, sweet peppers and roasted onions. All this goodness is to be stuffed into a mountain of fresh, soft tacos along with some red slaw, chipotle hibiscus salsa and more of that guacamole. Star dish of our whole meal was something I least expected – the pork pibil tortas bun. A light, slightly sweet bun filled with incredibly juicy pork, loads of flavour, smoky refried beans and a yucatan marinade, although I’ve no idea what the latter is. The incredible bun costs a mere £6.25 – a bargain if you ask me.
Desserts weren’t the most spectacular things I’ve ever eaten, but as soft serve ice-cream goes they weren’t bad at all. Passion fruit with caramelised coconut was the favourite, while the dulce de leche with candied peanut had all the flavour but just lacked a little extra depth and saltines I was hoping for more of. Still, it was very good. I hope in the summer they’ll be serving these beauties from a cart outside on Tottenham Court Road.
In fact my whole experience at DF/Mexico was very good. The place looks great inside, the staff are friendly and most importantly – the food is drop dead gorgeous. There’s so much flavour in the food here yet it still feels incredibly indulgent – but without the mountains of grease and fat. If you’re looking for a good value meal, buckets of quaffable wine and some of the best Mexican food you’ll eat in london then DF/Mexico should be top of your list. I may not be a fan of ordering my food at the till, but for food this good – who cares?
8/10
