REVIEW: Gigi’s, Woodstock Street, Mayfair

From the moment we arrived here at this hidden gem of a restaurant, a stones throw from Oxford Street, there was a quickly noticeable problem – the service. It was very off, there was no personality and in fact it was all a little uncomfortable. But don’t let that detract you because from the moment you put a bite of just about anything here in to your mouth, you’re immediately transported to another world. The food here is billed as Italian, but in some dishes that’s a little further from the truth – even Asian influences manage to make their way onto the menu. But with dishes like this starter of gorgeously soft roasted octopus with berlotti beans, all swimming in a deep and boldly flavoured onion broth – I see no reason why Gigi’s needs to deter away from its Italian roots because they do it all so well.

Pasta course of ravioli with amalfi lemon and buffalo ricotta was the stuff of dreams. The texture of the sauce at first looked to thick and gelatinous but once you take a mouthful you realise everything is how it should be. A sumptuously flavoured rich and buttery sauce mixed with lashings of oil, a refined lemon zestiness and a hint of sage – this was as good as it gets. The pasta was very well made and filled to the brim with heaps of fluffy, well-seasoned ricotta. At £12 this wasn’t bad either considering portion size, but a problem still remained – you’ll always want seconds.

Our favourite dish over lunch was an easy choice to make. Salt marsh lamb, heritage carrots, sheep milk and shallots. Not very Italian in its approach but with flavours bursting out of the seems as much as this did we didn’t care. The chunks of slightly pink lamb were some fine examples of good sourcing and every single vegetable on the plate was perfectly cooked. The cindered carrots were a lovely touch too. At first I wasn’t too sure about the sheep milk but we soon discovered it was a match made in heaven for this dish. The creaminess and subtly of flavour against the meat made for a subtle and actually very indulgent accompaniment – but without being heavy. A lovely plate of food which I’d happily eat over and over again.

For a so called Italian restaurant the dessert menu was rather more appealing then most others around. There’s only so much panna cotta, tiramisu and canollis I can eat. Instead we were presented with a sweet and succulent soft poached pear covered in a smooth, mousse like praline sauce and sprinkled with honeycomb. Why have I not eaten or seen this before on other menus elsewhere is beyond me – it’s simple but effective. It looked good, and it tasted even better. Every mouthful had so much flavour, acidity and decadence I was in ore – this is the sort of desert island dessert you could only hope for. At £7.50 it wasn’t bad either considering the flavour it keeps on giving. I never expected to find this magnificent bowl of food on the menu here at Gigi’s but I’m so glad I found it.

I thought I was going to get a break from tiramisu but with it being their signature tiramisu I couldn’t help but be nothing but intrigued to see how they put their mark on this classic Italian dish. I certainly hadn’t expected it to arrive de-constructed. The menu didn’t pre warn me, nor did it even hint towards its presentation – but what a fantastic surprise it was. A puddle of dark chocolate syrup, burnt sugar, intense and bitter coffee ice cream, dollops of thick marscapone and a meringue/honeycomb chunk. This was how to deconstruct a dish, and do it well. Each item on their own were perhaps only OK but mixed together in one mouthful and it all became alive. A perfect way to end the meal – almost.

I seem to have developed this sudden craving for an espresso Martini, so couldn’t help but sample Gigi’s offering. It was a little thin for my liking and could have easily been better balanced with a touch of sweetness, but it satisfied my craving at least. What amazes me most is that Gigi’s has been open since September and people have barely even heard of it. Located a stones throw from Oxford Street and just off New Bond Street, this is a fantastic new addition that only deserves to be busy. There is certainly some talent in the kitchen, so perhaps front of house and service is where it needs work most because with dishes almost as faultless as this the kitchen doesn’t cause much for concern. Whether gigi’s is completely Italian is questionable, but for me it can be what it wants – as long as it always tastes this good.

8/10

I was invited to review