I seem to be dishing out high scores all the time at the moment. It’s not because I’m easily pleased, or too nice (I’m horrible) – but simply because the level of cooking these days is becoming much more serious. With diners tastes changing (for the better) and people eating out more, there’s quickly becoming no space for mediocre food – unless it’s after midnight and you’ve had a few too many. The Colony Grill Room is located inside the shiny new, and may I say beautiful – Beaumont Hotel. This is the first hotel opening from very well-known restaurateurs, Corbin & King. They love the past and again here they’ve created a dining room (and hotel) which transports you back in time, to a prohibition-era American grill dining room with subtle modern hints.
I took a seat in the bar before we dined and had an excellent negroni made by the charming new staff here. Looking across the bar, you really would have no clue it was 2014 outside the doors – transporting me back in time, although not my time. Our charming waitress, as nervous as hell was a lovely host to the evening – shame I’d forgotten her name. House wine was very good, both the red and white and two bottles to myself confirmed that (quality control I think they call it). New York shrimp cocktail was a very simple affair – but executed perfectly. Fresh, large juicy prawns and a spicy tomato sauce for dipping. Seven of them was very generous too.
This was probably not the most conventional starter, but I went with it anyway. Macaroni cheese. It turned out to be the most refined mac ‘n’ cheese I’ve ever eaten. It was classy, posh and every part of it expertly balanced. From its well seasoned creamy sauce to faint lashings of grilled crumb and a good helping of chopped herbs – this isn’t the kind that goes with burgers, it goes with only champagne and fine burgundy. The Colony Grill Room have got this American favourite spot on.
Steak was on the menu, so I couldn’t help but ordering. A neat looking rib-eye with almost calculated grill indentations and carrying all the smokiness one could hope for. The meat had a good flavour, some nice pockets of fat – but if I’m been really picky it could have been more tender. The real problem I had with this dish was the price. With a £30 price tag it’s not exactly going to be something you travel here for. With the likes of Fortnums amazing showcase I discovered recently and Hawksmoor really only around the corner, this is a lot of money to ask for. As a hotel guest though, you’d head off to bed a very happy one.
Lamb cutlets were again extremely ambitious in their pricing, but to the dishes defence – the lamb was absolutely fantastic. Four well sized juicy cutlets cooked the right side of pink, had the most incredible layer lining of fat. I know I should be talking about the actual meat – and yes that was lovely, but the fat was just something else. A mouthful of both together was very naughty and was so good it felt like I was eating something I shouldn’t. Salty, perfectly seasoned and with flavour which was on another scale. All of a sudden that £33 didn’t seem so ambitious.
And then there was dessert. I was almost of waiting for at least one course to slip up a little and not be so perfect, especially with Corbin and King’s previous track record. Their restaurants have always been a little underwhelming for me. With Zedel receiving mixed reviews and the Colbert being a little boring – you then have The Wolseley and Delaunay at the other end of the spectrum – which are now rightly classed as British institutions. When it comes to design too, they can never be faulted. The Colony Grill Room is something very different altogether. This chocolate and hazelnut marquise was another of those deceiving plates of food. It looked just nice, but tasted fantastic. This is honest food done very well.
The Colony Grill Room has glamour, its got style, oozes opulence and above all – It may just have to become my new playground. The food here isn’t braking any boundaries, or even surprising, but what you can guarantee you’ll get here every time is simple, excellent quality food which is consistently good. The Colbert and Brasserie Zedel may have not been to my liking but with the opening of The Colony Grill Room, this dynamic duo may have just won my heart.
8/10
Oh I love it when a chocolate dessert is actually fabulous. There are too many BAD chocolate desserts out there nowadays…. or if not bad, then at least disappointing. This chocolate and hazelnut marquise may be one I have to check out.
I know there really is!! But if chocolate desserts are you thing, I can do you one better. Have a read of my review on Antidote Wine Bar – The marquise was actually incredible!!