REVIEW: Beluga, Maastricht, Netherlands

Out of all the restaurants I’ve eaten in across Europe, my visit to Beluga was only the third, two Michelin starred restaurant I’ve visited to date. Located in the wonderfully indulgent and refined city of Maastricht, Beluga restaurant feels very at home here in this pretty part of town. Whether you’re taking a scenic drive, a long walk along the river or down one of the many cobbled picturesque side streets – there is always an enjoyable way to arrive here at the restaurant. Open for both lunch and dinner prices are very competitive for a two Michelin star restaurant. Only 45 euro for the lunch menu or 100 euro for the extravagant ten course tasting menu.

Beluga has actually undergone some changes recently. To what they refer to as ‘the future of Beluga’ the whole entire experience has been re-branded as ‘Beluga Loves You’. After holding on to two Michelin stars and a bounty of great reviews the restaurant decided to make the whole experience much more accessible at both an entry-level price point, and also to casual down its service. This I assume is so they could attract a wider range of diners for what is a relatively small populated town with a reputation for the finer things in life (my kind of town).

After a glass of one of my favourite Cavas from producer, Vilarnau, a small selection of nibbles arrived. Sweet peppers and cherries were served three different ways. One which looked like a whole cherry was actually rather more interesting. Injected with a sweet and sour cherry juice and covered in a sugar syrup coating there wasn’t much not to like. Forgive me for not explaining the other two amuse we ate but language barrier got the better of us and in the end I had no idea with I was eating, other than knowing they both contained cherry and pepper. A lovely way to start the meal.

After we got through our nibbles and left the lounge area and moved through to the dining room, the décor changed from warm and cosy to light, airy, grand and with a real air of sophistication. Huge ceilings, a cool calm setting and a stunning palette of colours across the dining room, it felt like we were sitting in a designer showroom. Those blue chairs and tables were just the beginning. All I wanted to do was run away with them and place in my living room for those gastronomic meals I whip up (once a year at best).

I must admit the one thing I was expecting a little more from Beluga, was creativity. This dish of cold peppered langoustine with sliced radish was a nice enough plate of food, but it was missing that wow factor which a two Michelin starred restaurant should have in every dish. There was no denying the quality of ingredients on the plate but the pepper element really overpowered the dish and by the last spoonful it was all I could taste in my mouth. Minimalistic – yes, but perhaps a little too simple for this two Michelin starred restaurant.

Not a particularly flattering dish was our spaghetti con fruti di mare. But when it came to flavour it had bundles of it. A rich well seasoned sauce, buttery, some shellfish foam and with every piece of seafood tasting as if it was plucked out of the sea that morning (maybe it was). The spaghetti pasta was cooked the perfect side of al dente and still retained a good crunch and bite as it should do, contrary to what some people think – although that’s all down to personal taste essentially. A lovely dish which really evoked the taste of the sea and a little Italian charm.

Dorade fish with white wine and yoghurt was the most magnificent dish we ate her at Beluga – even if it didn’t look it again. This normally quite simple fish was elevated to new heights. Perfectly cooked, pristine white flaky flesh and sporting some beautifully crisp skin. A light buttery white wine sauce, paired with perfectly grilled seasonal vegetables and creamy drizzle of yoghurt. The dish was perfectly sized too and was just the right amount to get a good taste and leave us salivating. It was also paired with a beautiful white wine called Chateau Moulin Caresse from Montravel – affordable but stunning, oozing ripe juicy stone fruits and a pure minerality.

Petit fours continued our high the dorade left us on and didn’t let us down in the slightest. A warm madeleine with a fluffy centre and crumbly edges, was it the best madeleine I’ve ever eaten, without a doubt. The almost de-constructed lemon meringue pie definitely hit a comfort nerve as well – this was the sort of thing I love to eat at home on the sofa, although nothing quite as this good as this example. Not the conventional petit fours I’m used to but they made a lovely change.

Even after us finishing on a high be the end of our meal I still couldn’t help but wondering if Beluga really is of a two Michelin star standard. Yes the food is good, and sometimes outstanding but what it’s not is consistent. I read an article recently talking about lunch menus which are usually more affordable than the standard a la crate and I agree completely with what the article said ‘If the quality and creativity can’t be reciprocated in the lunch menu, then don’t bother’. Beluga certainly has a talented kitchen but its lunch menu does not do its food, or the restaurant justice. If you come here to Beluga then make sure you order from the a la carte menu, because I know Beluga has so much more to offer.

8/10