Rantree opened only a few months ago and is the brainchild of Ralph Hermans and Jennifer Silvius. Ralph previously worked as sous chef at Michelin starred Kristalijn in Genk while Jennifer, who also worked at Kristalijn was named Belgium’s sommelier of the year by the famous Gault Millau. If my experience was anything to go by she should perhaps be awarded European sommelier of the year, she truly was infectious and her wine matching was absolutely perfect with each dish. Some pre-nibbles arrived to match our glass of champagne and each was as tantalising as the other, especially the piccalilli on something crispy (I wasn’t entirely sure what it was). I blame the champagne.
Another little amuse bouche to wet our appetite was this deconstructed tricolore. Everything had a texture you wouldn’t expect, but still a recognisable flavour. A jelly of tomato, a foam of mozzarella, an oil of basil and Parmesan crisp perched on the cup. This was the famous Italian tricolore reinvented and definitely gave the original a run for its money. The textures do take some time getting used to but a couple of spoonfuls in and you’ll be quickly converted.
Our first starter was an absolutely magnificent one. A huge half plate full of dill marinated rolled salmon accompanied by the most delicate watermelon sorbet, radishes, pickles and a herb vinaigrette. It was one of the freshest dishes I’ve eaten all year and was partly down to that stunning salmon and awe-inspiring sorbet which left me salivating.
I have never been quite the fan of beef pastrami so seeing it on the menu here I couldn’t resist in that hope of being converted. It’s not that I don’t like the flavour, but more the disappointed with it not having one. Unfortunately Rantree didn’t manage to convert me, but they did make me happy. Three pieces of moist pastrami were topped with florets of pickled cauliflower, a golden breaded quails egg with that all important runny yolk – it was good, but for me to like it then it had to be great.
I think pork has to be one of the most underestimated meats of all time. Of course the belly is famed for its crunch and soft juiciness but what everyone forgets about is the loin and chops. If you buy quality, and know how to cook it – you can even go as far as comparing it to being just as satisfying as a USDA steak – it just takes a little bit more effort in the kitchen. The currently in season Dutch white asparagus was a juicy, stunning example and cooked very well too. Along with some cabbage, mushrooms, sweetcorn and a yellow mustard and beetroot puree.
Cod with spinach, asparagus, potatoes, fried quail and a delicate curry sauce may have well been the best thing I ate on my trip this time round in Maastricht. Everything about it was light, delicate, subtle but lingering, specially that perfumed curry sauce. The fish particularly was excellent with a meaty white flesh and crispy skin. This is the sort of dish that was so comforting and it reminded me of my travels in Sweden. Looking out of a window to smashing waves and blustering winds while tucking into a warm, hearty plate of food.
Our dessert arrived and quite frankly, wasn’t much to look at. But from the moment you spoon it into your mouth, its vaguely attractive appearance is forgotten. Pistachio, rose, marscapone, vanilla, fragrant strawberries and egg whites made for a thing of beauty. It was almost like eating a deconstructed baked Alaska but with a crumble base and vanilla custard (so nothing like a baked Alaska then). A lovely light way to near the end of our meal.
After we managed to practically inhale our dessert, a rather large selection of petit fours arrived. Vanilla doused crème brulee, white chocolate truffles, mini cupcakes and lemon posset tarts – this was casual and decadent fine dining at its best. Rantree may just be Maastrichts best new recent opening. The restaurant has a first class sommelier, a relaxed dining feel and a range of dishes to set the palate racing. I hope Rantree does very well, but I have no doubt it will. Who knows, perhaps with a little more precision on the plates this tiny new restaurant could be holding Maastrichts next Michelin star.
8/10
