Over the past few years Gordon Ramsay has had a lot stick for some of his restaurants, and sometimes unlikeable TV personality. I myself have never quite given up on the man. So far I’ve enjoyed all of his London restaurants (of that I’ve been to) and to me that’s all that matters. Up until recently he’s hit the London press yet again, this time with the opening of London House in Battersea – and a new haircut, which frankly looks as though he had an encounter with a tiny lawn mower.
Haircut aside. London House is located on the pretty, picturesque Battersea Square. It’s an area of London which has that feeling of the London suburbs, yet you’re only just round the corner from Zone 1. A small terrace outside by the road for a pre nibble and glass of Champagne makes for a welcoming start, especially when the sun is shining. Inside the restaurant has been very cleverly designed. Bistro style with white tablecloths, simple wooden tables and comfy chairs all surrounded by crisp white walls. Service was immaculate, not too intrusive and some bread shortly arrived with which I must say – was stunning. Light and airy, resembling a crumpet inside with a dark and rich nutty fragranced crust. Accompanying butter was also very good.
Much like the decor, the food was crisp and precise. Both flavours, presentation, quality and quantity struck a perfect balance. The only real dish, if any to let down the meal ever so slightly was this starter of English asparagus with homemade goats cheese, pecan and a maple dressing. The asparagus was excellent, the cheese was gorgeous but I was expecting far more of a sweetness from the dressing. In fact I struggled to detect much maple at all. It goes so well with goats cheese, much like honey does so I’d have liked to see a little more, or at least some of it on the plate.
When you’re faced with truly simple, but marvellous creations such as this gremolata crusted yellow fin tuna, golden beetroot and a stunning anchovy sauce its hard to imagine what better things there are in life (apart from wine and chocolate). The tuna was as fresh as the day it was caught, and the anchovy sauce as smooth as butter. Quite frankly I could have eaten a whole tub of it if given the chance. The dish was so light, yet once you leave this place – you’ll be feeling incredibly full.
We visited London House at the weekend at lunch will set you back only £30 for three courses, which isn’t bad at all. Once our main courses arrived, things got a little more serious as everything we ate here on in was utterly delicious. Saddle of lamb was served with a wild garlic purée and a pressed lamb hotpot. Need I say anything more. I was salivating at just the thought of tucking in to it before arriving here. The lamb was perfectly cooked, and full of flavour. The purée had a rich, strong intensity and the pressed hotpot was simply magnificent. I didn’t want to it end.
Just as much could be said for the Cumbrian beef fillet (cooked medium rare), with a creamy broad bean purée and large pieces of gnocchi filled with a stringy, rich and meaty braised cheek. It was a meat lovers paradise, and easily could replace my Sunday roast dinner any time. The gnocchi being so large I worried it would be difficult to cook well, but was actually better than most classic Italian versions I normally feast upon – but very different. The thought of eating these two dishes again gets me very excited indeed. I hope they stay on the menu for a while to come.
Desserts were simple affairs, but ones you wouldn’t want to part with. I’m a big fan of posset. It’s a dessert that mostly contains no more than a few ingredients but yet so many places get it wrong. London House of course didn’t. A smooth and well textured passion fruit posset literally sets the mouth salivating with all that fruity zest. Accompanied by some home-made cardamom and ginger oat cakes it was arguably the best posset I’ve eaten in a restaurant to date. The lemon version I once ate at Entree in Battersea use to hold that title.
A dark chocolate tart which had that all important shine was served alongside a lavender ice cream, a flavour combination I had yet to try, but will be doing so again shortly I can assure you. That and the caramel honeycomb crumble made this dish not the sort of thing you want to share. It was a little on the bitter side so bare that in mind if you’re not a fan of dark chocolate and prefer the milk kind.
I’d heard mixed reviews on London House. Rumours of small portions, and overpriced dishes yet that couldn’t be worlds apart from what I ate. Battersea needed a destination restaurant, and now it has one. Gordon Ramsay has done a fine job in this restaurant and is very lucky to have head chef Anna Haugh-Kelly looking after the kitchen. If for some reason you’ve been doubting your visit – don’t. Just go, you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
8/10
