Making our way up a dark, windy road, some light finally emerges from the Christmas trees that adorn the outside of a beautiful hotel, La Butte aux Boix – owned by none other than Relais & Chateau. Located deep in the heart of the Verdant woodlands area, the property was originally built for a knight, Sir Lagasse de Locht. We immediately knew upon entering the property that something was going to be special here.
Inside La Butte aux Boix you immediately notice the luxurious décor and its elegant charm. Festive decorations were in full swing and huge stone fireplaces were roaring away. We were very warmly greeted and took a seat in the lounge area with a chance to sip on some high quality German beer and chilled manzanilla sherry. An array of finger foods arrived to whet our appetite. The goose liver mousse and shrimp was an indulgent treat.
Amuse bouches came out in force, with lots of them. What really stood out was a stunning single razor clam in a pool of fresh cucumber water and a smoky BBQ foam. Presented beautifully in a shell it was pure heaven and really refreshed the palette. A loaf of expertly cooked bread was replenished throughout the meal, I think we managed to put away about three of them between the two of us. Olive oil for dipping was of high quality and had an intense flavour which we loved.
The first full course to arrive at our table was the tuna and foie gras – it was so good I only took a photo halfway through demolishing it. The foie gras was shaved, very cold to keep it from melting away on the plate and was astonishingly well-flavoured. The tuna was cooked to such sheer perfection it felt like cutting through butter. Accompanied by some yakon carrot (I have no idea), dollops of pomegranate sauce and eucalyptus oil. The silver pearls of foie gras won me over with this dish and left me longing, and dreaming for more of it all.
Halibut and periwinkle were yet again, precision perfect cooking. The halibut was like eating slithers of sashimi it was so tender. The periwinkle (marine snails) were not at all chewy or tasteless, as I was expecting. On the plate there was a scattering of parsley, some buttery dollops of Jerusalem artichoke, crispy lettuce leaves and a lovely citrusy lift to it all. The dish wasn’t complete without a little bit of foam – something the chef here seems to love. It was all very refined, yet had that richness you expect from a buttery French restaurant.
Writing about La Source restaurant almost feels like an honour. It is the first restaurant in my whole time of writing I have given a score of 10/10. Out next to our table was perhaps one of the best dishes I have ever eaten in my short writing career. La Source’s version of duck a l’orange. Cooked in what I presume was a water bath, looked completely rare to the eye, but was warm, and as tender as a plum. The taste was incredible and so flavoursome. Dollops of black sesame sauce added an oriental touch, rolls of sweet vegetables such as carrots and pumpkin had bags of flavour. A sauce of the duck and miso were an indulgent delight. Freshly grated orange zest gave freshness, while some mushrooms and puffed rice gave texture.
Throughout our whole meal we were plied with wine, and lots of it by who I believe was sommelier Robert Penseel, a sheer delight to be around. I work in wine, as my day job yet he was introducing me to wines and grape varieties I never knew about. His wine pairing was absolutely spot on every time. Robert was the perfect host.
My mouth hadn’t stopped salivating since the moment I took my first mouthful here and the langoustine dish was testament to some truly amazing cooking. One dish in two separate plates. A grilled square of cuttlefish, smoky and soft on a plate with longoustine mouse and various accompaniments I can’t quite remember. Its partner in crime, a lapsang souchong tea broth, which glistened and shined, contained an extremely well cooked langoustine, codium (algae) and a fresh grating of mandarin. Gosh was is it good.
Turbot arrived with skin grilled to look as crunchy as crackling but was instead soft as icing on a cake. Silver pearls of melt in the mouth foie gras covered my lips, the turbot was silky soft and buttery while dollops of smoked eel and beetroot jus provided an unforgettable experience. The dish was small, but perfectly formed.
You’d maybe think this post was near to its end, but you would be wrong. Chargrilled tuna filled with smoked foie gras pearls and a glistening salty sauce was magnificent. That tuna was the best I have ever tasted and mixed with foie gras containing a smoked element – what more can I say.
A little language barrier meant dessert was missed (which I was really looking forward to) but instead we had a cheese course – and I am glad we did. Our young, professional waiter wheeled over a selection of cheeses cut, and set out neatly on a plate. The Belgium speciality’s were by far our favourite, especially the strong blue. Some home-made cherry compote was divine and a perfect accompaniment.
The language barrier I was blaming – a total lie, we were just being spoilt. A solid ball, which with the touch of some hot caramel sauce started to melt and reveal a rich spiced apple and vanilla mush. A crumble of biscuit and cinnamon sat as the base while dollops of crème fraiche, apple sauce and indulgent thick caramel moulded it all together – it was the dessert of desserts.
We were wondering when this meal would end, not because we wanted it to – but instead because we felt extremely full. A menu of friandises arrived. Gin and tonic and mojito lollipops were refreshing. A macaroon, gold crusted rocher and shiny meringue were perfect. Tarte rubli gateaux pieces were my favourite, sitting on my tongue until they dissolved.
The end of our meal had arrived. We struggled to move from our table, feeling twice the size than when we got here. As I said this is the first time I have given a restaurant a 10/10. Of course the food was absolutely amazing but it’s also about the service. The service here from the moment you walk in the door was immaculate. We spoke with nearly every member of staff, all of whom were extremely important to the business. Head chef Ralf Berendsen and Bianca Harteman have done an excellent job here. Maitree, Kevin Vondenhoff also deserves a special mention, an asset to this thriving restaurant. The restaurant may have just received one Michelin star but for me, it deserves a second.
10/10
