Deep in the Jekerdal Valley, high up in the hills is a magnificent castle, hidden and secluded from the tourist eye. Chateau Neercanne dates back to the 17th century, and the estate was originally built by the military governor of Maastricht, Baron Daniel Wolf van Dopff. The property is now in the hands of Camille Ooswegel, part of the ChâteauHotels group. Arriving at the doors of this beautiful property and looking out on to the rolling hills of the valley is something else. The restaurant holds one Michelin star, something which i feel it is very worthy of.
We took a seat in the grand dining room, which you could really feel was steeped in history. Antique furniture and huge glass chandeliers adorned the ceilings. Original artworks and medieval tapestries followed through the rest of the building. The table opposite us was where Queen Beatrix held lunch for the leaders of the member states of the European Union. The Maastricht Treaty was signed here in this very room (pictured above), and the signatures can be seen in the wine cellar vaults.
We dined off the restaurants special tricentennial lunch menu. For 45 euro you’ll be feasted like a king. An aperitif of champagne (which seems to be the norm in Maastricht) and some fresh, hot bread arrived, which was simple, but well cooked. An very well balanced amuse bouche of artichoke and sesame seed paste along with some warm, freshly baked snacks. A delightfully dainty tarragon infused madeleine and a light, crispy pastry swirl laced with anchovies and tomato.
My starter arrived which looked like a work of art. It was unbelievably good, a favourite of mine from the entire trip. A crescent formed veal tartar which had the consistency of being raw (of course) but if you tasted it blind, you’d have no idea. It was well seasoned and had so much flavour. I ate it very slowly, i didn’t want it to end. A cream of delicate goats cheese mousse sat on the side of the plate which blended each mouthful together. Cave mushrooms (mushrooms grown in caves in case i sound stupid) were finely chopped and mixed with some intense flavoured oil. The pièce de résistance was a few pieces of thick, black lacquered veal neck. Crispy on the outside, tender on the inside. A few other accompaniments sat perched on the top which i couldn’t quite put my finger on yet it was all so good, i gave up trying to guess and enjoyed every bite.
One of thing i love about Maastricht in terms of food, is their fondness for duck, foie gras, and veal. A well presented plate full of succulent slices of rare, grilled duck breast were accompanied by a sweet and rich compote of shallots, which i could eat by the spoon. A shaving of carrot disguised a rich, indulgent cabbage mixture and a topping of foamy foie gras sauce. A piping of polenta mash and smoked almonds really made this dish. It was a real winter warmer and something which really reminds you that you’re eating in the middle of the countryside.
It was really difficult to criticize the food here at Château Neercanne and seeing it didn’t quite scrape a 10/10 from me i’m really nitpicking here with the dessert. A luke warm apple pie, which was served de-constructed was mainly a mixture of crushed apples and winter spices. The spiced crumble sat neatly on the top, though i’d have liked more of it. Caramel ice cream which is served from the pot at your table was verging on mouse lightness. It was so delicately flavoured and was very well made. Some calvados was apparent but not strong, and a green sponge like piece on the side of my plate – well i had no idea what it was. But it certainly added some colour to the plate. A very good dessert, but too much apple and not enough pie!
A mini meringue pie and some home-made praline wafer chocolates topped it all off and left us feeling full, and ready for bed. With a lot of restaurants in Maastricht being so close to both Germany, and Belgium you’d have thought the wines would be mostly from these areas. Wine matching was perfect nearly everywhere i have dined and instead meals are mostly paired with New World wines which give far more flavour, and buck for your money – such as La Source in Lanaken. Next time i make it back to this wonderfull city i’ll definitely be returning to Château Neercanne, as head chef Hans Snijders, is a truly talented chef who creates a memorable experience.
9/10
