I have fallen head over heels with Maastricht. If it wasn’t for me not speaking Dutch I would move over here in an instant. Everything is just that little bit better than the UK (sorry London). Its affluent, inviting, full of tradition and the standards of fine dining – well that’s just something else. They really have mastered the art in hospitality.
Many people only know the town for the Maastricht Treaty and I’m happy for it to stay that way. Here for only a few days it was hard to decide where to eat, even if it is my second time here this year. We choose Rozemarijn one night, nestled away on one of the many idyllic streets. It was the modern open kitchen that caught our eye walking past and led us in through its doors.
It was quiet, very quiet, but Sunday’s and Monday’s in Maastricht are always the same, everyone stays at home and most restaurants close their doors. The decor inside was very modern and relaxed with tables and service set towards fine dining. It looks over a lovely little courtyard which i imagine is magical in the winter with all the glass windows. We were brought over a small appetizer of smoked eel, citrus squares, egg and avocado puree. They were a delight and not as potent as you’d expect. It also matched very well with the champagne aperitif.
More appetisers arrived shortly after. A gazpacho soup which was bursting with a flavour and a strong dose of garlic. The goats cheese tarts topped with seeds were simple, but very moorish. Surprisingly for all the effort with the appetizers the bread was not overly exciting.
A popular dish everywhere in Maastricht was tuna, especially as a starter and there were some fine examples. Here it was prepared in the kiln with tomatoes, asparagus, aubergine and capers. The word amazing doesn’t even give this dish justice. The tuna was perfectly cooked and tore apart with ease. The asparagus was well cooked, fresh and flavoursome. But the real star of this dish was the sauce. An oily, silky tomato sauce which with every bite had something new to offer – what exactly was in it, i’m unsure. It married this dish together so well. A stunning dish and would even make on to one of the best dishes of 2013.
Haddock, crispy skin on, was cooked in the oven with almonds, then topped with silky soft artichoke, an assortment of vegetables and a sweet red pepper salsa which was reminiscent of ‘heaven’ – i felt as though i’d died for a short second. It was then finished off with a mint foam. The team in the kitchen looked relatively young – it was all very impressive. Some of the local wine in Maastricht was stunning. I paired most of my meal with a wine which was a blend of Muller Thurgau, Pinot Gris and Auxerrois. Full of clean minerality, citrus and a touch of stone fruit. It would definitely give the nearby border of Germany a run for its money (hopefully no Germans are reading this).
When i eat out in the UK these days its all about turning over tables quickly. Me, i want to relax, space between courses and take my time. It’s exactly that in Maastricht, most meals lasted for two hours at lunch and over three, pushing close to four at dinner. The dessert out next sounded a little simple. Simply, raspberry soup. It looked truly elegant in the bowl when it arrived. Sitting, waiting at the bottom was a slice of spiced pineapple which was then smothered in dark & red fruits – all at their optimum ripeness and a faultless red fruit sorbet. All of the fruit was then drench in a shiny, glazed raspberry soup which the waiter poured over the top. A final, but key part to this dish was the toasted almonds for an extra layer of texture. I wish we had taken a photo after as our plates had been drunk dry – not an ounce left.
Rozemarijn is without doubt one of Maastrichts best restaurants. I’m sure their are plenty more for me to discover but at the moment this is my favourite. Its elegant, refined and the food is phenomenal. It is exactly what i want in a restaurant. Yes there could have been a little more atmosphere, but even Maastrichts two Michelin starred restaurant is closed on a Sunday/Monday. If atmosphere is what you want then come on a Saturday – though you’ll probably have to book way in advance. If you’re not already booking your flight then remember, all this amazing food is only €34.50 per person – a bargain if you ask me. This restaurant is sadly, lacking a Michelin star – one to watch for that reason alone i’m sure.
9/10
